Dhaka Dweller

Highway to Death

2011-08-14T12:27:00.019+06:00

Bangladesh used to have very good road networks – compared to its level of development. That unfortunately, is a thing of the past. Oh the roads are still there on the map. Whether you can use them to go from one place to another is a different issue altogether.

Of the things that bother me about Bangladesh, lack of safety on roads is near the top of the list. Poor road conditions, old vehicles, inept drivers and reckless driving make our roads deathtraps - both city roads and highways. Not a day goes by that we don't hear of a road accident claiming multiple lives. And it gets worse in the monsoon season, when heavy rains aggravate the problem. Around 12,000 people die in road accidents every year and thrice that number are injured.

I am NOT exaggerating!

44 schoolboys were killed and 15 seriously injured just last month when the truck they were traveling in skidded off a highway and plunged into a six-feet deep canal in southeast Chittagong district.
The boys, aged 10 to 13, were from the Mirsarai sub-district of Chittagong and were returning to their villages after watching their school take part in a soccer tournament. The villagers were stunned into silence - too shocked to even mourn as the small white-shrouded bodies were lowered into graves. Will life ever be the same there?

In the same month, three separate road accidents in Bogra, Gazipur and Narayanganj left 24 people dead and 65 others injured. In Bogra, a bus collided head-on with a truck on Dhaka-Rangpur highway, leaving 17 people dead and 30 others injured.

In another accident, a head-on collision between a truck and a bus on the Dhaka-Tangail highway bypass road in Gazipur, left four people dead and 20 injured. Another head-on collision between a bus and a truck on the Dhaka-Chittagong highway in Narayanganj left three more dead and 15 injured.

And just yesterday, renowned film-naker Tareque Masud (of Muktir Gaan and Matir Moyna fame) lost his life when a bus turned a corner at high speed and rammed into their vehicle on the Dhaka-Aricha highway in Manikganj. The impact of the collision flattened and nearly tore the smaller vehicle in half.

Of the four others who died on the spot was media personality Mishuk Munier, the best thing to have happened to journalism in Bangladesh in recent years. Three others were critically injured in the crash including Tareque's wife Catherine, co-director and film editor.

Our political leaders dutifully express shock at the accidents, pray for the salvation of the departed souls and express sympathy for the bereaved families. Empty promises are made to punish the guilty (bus and truck drivers somehow always manage to escape and evade the law enforcement agencies). Enquiry committees are sometimes formed to investigate the accident. The public never hears the committee reports, and I doubt the government pays any heed to their recommendations - if indeed, any are made.

The government knows perfectly well what should be done. There must be improvement of the enforcement of traffic laws - including driving rules and vehicle condition. The training of drivers (especially for heavy duty vehicles) must be under rigorous inspection (it's laughably easy to get a license in Bangladesh - even if you can barely drive). Capital punishment for reckless drivers should be reintroduced (at least for the time being) for its deterrent value. And last but not the least, physical conditions of the roads must be optimum. This should be done. But will it get done? Corruption has so deeply penetrated this sector (as others) that it is hard for the people to see a light at the end of the tunnel.

According to one study, the annual fatality rate from road accidents in Bangladesh is 85.6 per 10,000 vehicles, making us one of the most road accident-prone countries of the world. However, apart from the human tragedies, the economic costs of such accidents are also quite high.

Many of the country’s highways are in a sorry state. And when I say sorry, I mean hiding-away-in-shame kind of sorry. Sloppy construction and lack of maintenance for years have led to this state. A part of the 120 km Dhaka-Mymensingh highway has deteriorated to such an extent that buses and trucks are overturning in the potholes (well, they are more like craters!). A two-hour journey takes eight or nine, sometimes more. Little wonder that transport owners have suspended services until the highway is repaired to a motorable condition. Transport owners have also suspended service to a part of the highway serving northern Bangladesh. I won't be surprised if transport owners in other areas of the country follow suit.

The message that is ringing out loud and clear to the government is that negligence to maintenance of infrastructure (and our infrastructure is already inadequate to begin with) must stop and repair work must take priority. Is the government paying heed? Doesn't seem like it.

Our government is so ‘concerned’ about the big things - rewriting the Constitution, debating what to call the indigenous people of the country, sewing up tight corruption cases against top opposition leaders, harassing the one 'wrongly awarded' the Nobel prize… They seem to think they can, and should be, forgiven for viewing road maintenance and safety for the people as a low priority! Winning the next election at any cost is their life’s objective. If corruption has to run rampant in the party (and in the bodies that will help the party achieve its goal) then so be it. But I wonder if they have considered that at this rate, there might not be anyone left to vote for them come election time? And those who are left alive, might just say no to a party who has failed so spectacularly to ensure safety on the roads?

Rain Rain

2011-08-11T10:19:00.027+06:00

The sky is overcast with clouds and the rain is ceaseless.

It is the Monsoon season in Bangladesh and the skies have well and truly opened up over the past few days. We get 80 percent of our annual rainfall during this season (the Bengali calendar months of Ashar and Srabon begin mid-June and end in mid-August) so this isn’t a surprise really.

We love the monsoon. It brings a welcome respite from the intolerable summer heat. It irrigates our crop fields and breathes new life into flora and fauna. This is the season which Bengali poets have written most about. Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore is often called the ‘Monsoon Poet’. See how vividly he describes the rain:

Sullen clouds are gathering fast over the black fringe of the forest...
The crows with their dragged wings are silent on the tamarind branches, and the eastern bank of the riveris haunted by a deepening gloom…
The sky seems to ride fast upon the madly rushing rain; the water in the river is loud and impatient…
The road to the market is desolate; the lane to the river is slippery.
The wind is roaring and struggling among the bamboo branches like a wild beast tangled in a net.
(Rainy Day)

We have monsoon songs and monsoon dances. It is traditional to stage a “Borsha Boron” program - welcoming the monsoon.

With the advent of dark rain clouds, peacocks start their courtship rain-dance.

Children also have great fun in the rain.

As do dogs :-)

We have monsoon flowers (Kodom).

And monsoon food - fried hilsha and fried aubergine, served with khichuri.

Of course, on the other side of the beauty lurks the dark side of Monsoon.

Waterlogged roads.

Floods caused by overflowing rivers.

Landlides.

Heightened misery of slum-dwellers.

And as heavy showers continue to lash the towns and villages, waterborne diseases raise their ugly head, with children falling the easiest victims.

But despite the hardships, rain clouds touch a happy note in our hearts. Parents lovingly name their children after the rain (Brishti) and even the floods (Bonna). The beauty of rain is truly a sight to behold.

So I sing: Let it Rain. Let it Rain. Let it Rain.

(Most of the photos in this post are mine, but some I took from various sites on the internet.)

First Day of Ramadan

2011-08-03T11:25:00.014+06:00

Yesterday was the first day of Ramadan in Bangladesh and I’d been cranky all day. First, I had to wake up at 4am to drink a glass of water (I don’t eat Sehri - the pre-sunrise meal, but my Mom absolutely insists that I have to take something), and then had trouble falling asleep. Second, my stomach doesn’t yet know it’s Ramadan and had been growling (sometimes embarrassingly loudly) since noon. Third, I’d been thinking all day about what I would eat for Iftar (the meal with which we break the fast) and berating myself simultaneously for having such un-Ramadan-like thoughts.

I stopped at a couple of restaurants on my way home and bought more food than we could possibly eat in one meal. My excuse (to myself) was that we were going to have a guest for Iftar. It was also convenient to pretend temporary amnesia - you see, I had instructed the cook to prepare a number of items before I left for work in the morning.

So, all in all, this is what the Iftar table carried:

Chilled lemonade (it looked great and tasted even better!!!)

Ajwa Dates - from the Prophet Muhammad’s ((PBUH) own gardens (we bought these from Saudi Arabia). A fasting body benefits from the date's high level of natural sugars. Dates are also high in vitamins A and B6, folic acid, and a number of minerals. Eating dates is like taking a daily dose of natural multivitamin.

Fresh cucumber slices - another thirst quencher. Cucumber has a high mineral content - ideal for a starving body.

Sliced Orange - the Vitamin C rush!

Chhola (cooked chick peas).

Piyaju (deep fried mashed lentil and onion patties).

Beguni (batter fried aubergines) - my favourite!

Muri (puffed rice) - an Iftar staple.

Mutton Haleem - meat cooked with a wheat/lentil mix.

Vegetable Khichuri (rice and moong dal with carrot and potato).

Grilled Chicken.

Crunchy Jalebis - deep friend flour and curd batter. They just melt in your mouth!

Mitha Tukda - bread slices in thickened milk with almond and pistachio.

and Birthday Pastry!!

Number of Iftar items: 14. Number of people eating this Iftar: 4.

Did I eat all that? Of course not!! But I really do need to practice not being so easily tempted - especially during Ramadan.

Amazing Yosemite!

2011-08-02T11:01:00.021+06:00

My husband and I were vacationing in July on the West Coast of the US. On our itinerary was a visit to Yosemite National Park in California. And when I tell you it is one of the most beautiful places on earth, I won’t be exaggerating one bit!!! Read on and see for yourself.

Upon entering the park, we headed to Glacier Point, a viewpoint located on the south wall of Yosemite Valley at an elevation of 7,214 ft. The point offers a superb view of the valley, including Yosemite Falls, Half Dome, Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall, and Clouds Rest. I’ve read that the glacial origin of the area is definitely proved by the presence in it of rocks derived from Little Yosemite Valley and the High Sierra.

The focal point of the amazing vista that lay before us was the majestic Half Dome - possibly Yosemite's most familiar rock formation. The granite crest rises more than 4,737 ft above the valley floor.

After walking around the Glacier Point area for a bit we drove on, going through the Wawona Tunnel

to emerge at Tunnel View vista point on State Route 41. The view looks east into Yosemite Valley including the southwest face of El Capitan, Half Dome, and Bridal Veil Falls. And what a mindblowing view it was!!!

El Capitan is a 3,000 ft vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, located on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end.

The granite monolith is one of the world's favorite challenges for rock climbers. The formation was named "El Capitan" by the Mariposa Battalion when it explored the valley in 1851. El Capitán ("the captain", "the chief") was taken to be a loose Spanish translation of the local Native American name for the cliff, variously transcribed as "To-to-kon oo-lah" or "To-tock-ah-noo-lah".

The glaciers that carved Yosemite Valley left many hanging valleys which spawned the waterfalls that pour into the valley. Bridal Veil Fall is one of the most prominent waterfalls in the Park.

Bridal Veil Fall is 617 ft and flows year round. When the wind blows briskly, the waterfall will appear to be falling sideways. During lesser water flow, the falls often don't reach the ground. Because of this, the Ahwahneechee tribe called this waterfall Pohono, which means Spirit of the Puffing Wind. Thee believed that Bridalveil Fall was home to Pohono which guarded the entrance to the valley, and that those leaving the valley must not look directly into the waterfall lest they be cursed (Pohono was a vengeful spirit, apparently). They also believed that inhaling the mist of Bridal Veil Fall would improve one's chances of marriage. Had I been single I might have been tempted :)

We drove on towards the valley floor, the road running parallel to the Merced River

and wounding through massive California Redwoods.

The Merced River is a 145 mile long river flowing from the Sierra Nevada. It is most well known for its swift and steep course through the southern part of Yosemite Park.

The river's character changes dramatically once it reaches the foothills and the lowlands, becoming a slow-moving meandering waterway.

The Miwok and Paiute tribes lived along the river for thousands of years, thriving on the bountiful flora and fauna supported by the river and its diverse lower course, aided by fertile soils eroded from the mountains.

The drive afforded us spectacular views of the Yosemite Falls - the highest measured waterfall in North America.

The total 2,425 ft from the top of the upper falls to the base of the lower falls qualifies Yosemite Falls as the seventh highest waterfall in the world. The upper fall (a 1,430 ft plunge)is formed by the swift waters of Yosemite Creek, which, after meandering through Eagle Creek Meadow, hurl themselves over the edge of a hanging valley in a spectacular and deafening show of force. The Lower Falls (a 320 ft drop) provides the best viewing point for the waterfalls. Yosemite Creek emerges from the base of the Lower Falls and flows into the Merced River nearby. Between the two obvious main plunges there are a series of five smaller plunges collectively referred to as the Middle Cascades. Taken together these account for a total drop of 675 ft.

After lunch in Curry Village on the valley floor,

we headed out of the Park through the 10,000 ft high Tioga Pass, but that tale I’ll save for another day.

Candy's 5th Birthday

2011-08-01T14:20:00.030+06:00

August was approaching. A very important month in our household. Our little princess was born on August 2nd. And her 5th birthday was knocking on the door. Planning for her birthday had to start.

I decided to have an animal-theme birthday this year. The guest list was limited to only a few close family and friends. The menu was also kept simple. The cake was deleted from the list because Candy isn’t allowed to eat cake, and it seemed unfair to have it on the menu when it was her party!

A birthday rhyme was found: "A birthday party is being planned And we hope you can come To share with us an afternoon Of good old fashioned fun. Please join us as we celebrate This most eventful day Come and be our special guests For Candy’s 5th birthday."

Invitation cards were printed and distributed.

Animal-print material was made into a dress (for me) and a collar (for Candy).

I put together a poster which would announce the party at the front door.

An animal-print banner was made and hung with red ribbon.

I was very fortunate to find some animal print upholstery material. It made the perfect table runner.

Two wooden bowls from Africa added just the right touch. As did the Black Bear cushion.

Golden, White and Red balloons were hung around the house with red ribbon.

We also hung reminders that it was a 5th birthday party.

Serving dishes were wrapped with red silk ribbon.

And the guests came. We ate and made merry.

Candy loved all the attention.

Not to mention her gifts.

It was a happy time for everyone.

Confessions of a Criminal

2011-08-01T11:13:00.001+06:00

I’ve committed a crime. A very serious crime.

I’ve been lazy. Too lazy to blog. I wish I could say that I’ve been too busy but that would be a lie. I have been busy but was never too busy. And it’s not that I never came near a computer. And it’s not that I didn’t have stories to share.

And in my utter laziness, I’ve disappointed the many readers who made the time to look up my blog, only to find that I hadn’t posted anything new. And this happened time and again over (gasp) almost a year. I feel so bad. I really have no words to express how sorry I am to have disappointed you.

Apologies won’t right the wrong so I will try to make amends in the only way possible. I’ll start blogging again. Regularly, I hope.

I am eternally grateful to my many readers who dropped emails to ask what’s been happening in my life, and offered words of encouragement to continue with blogging. You are the ones for whom I write, and your support really means a lot. Thanks a lot.

My Quiet Eid

2010-09-12T16:17:00.011+06:00

Eid-ul-Fitr is the biggest celebration for Muslims. On this day, we give thanks to Allah for allowing us the blessing of completing another Ramadan. Muslims are also encouraged on this day to forgive and forget any differences or past animosities that may have occurred with others during the year. Everywhere you hear greetings of Eid Mubarak (Greeting on Eid). The Eid prayer is performed in congregations in open fields or mosques, or in community centers. After the prayers, we visit families, friends and acquaintances, or hold large communal celebrations. Eid is also a truly gastronomic experience. We visit family and friends, and are visited in return, and everywhere, food takes center stage.

Popular Eid dishes in Bangladesh are Shemai (a vermicelli/milk dish), Kheer (rice pudding)

and Zarda (sweet saffron rice).

Shemai can be of three kinds: Lachcha Shemai, Bhuna Shemai (also known as Zarda Shemai), and Milk Shemai.

Some savoury dishes are also prepared. The favourites are Chotpoti (a chick pea/potato dish)

and Shami Kabab (mince/lentil patties).

These are usually offered during morning or afternoon visits.

For lunch and dinner, there is the mandatory Pulao, served with Chicken Korma or Roast.

Mutton and Beef dishes are also essential for the Eid table, but this year the chicken reined supreme in Bangladesh due to the anthrax incidents. I'm sure the cows and goats breathed a sigh of relief at the (temporary) respite.

This year, I was determined to spend a quiet Eid. Quite made up mind to be neither visitor nor visitee. And with the man of the house going to visit his parents for Eid (and most of the family/friends thinking I was going with him), I saw no other obstacles in my way.

Books, magazines and dvds were purchased.

The staff was given a holiday. I cooked enough food (murgh pulao) so that I wouldn't have to cook every meal.

The house was spiffed up (just in case).

and Voilà! I was all set for my quiet Eid.

On the big day, Candy and I woke to the sound of (very loud) music.

We went to have Eid lunch with my parents. The streets were blissfully traffic-free and Candy enjoyed the wind in her face.

At lunch I gorged myself on Pulao and Roast (oh, Mum's cooking....Yummm!!!). Candy pigged out on Lachcha Shemai. We returned home absolutely content, with nothing but rest and relaxation on my mind.

Oh, what bliss the past three days have been. I lazed around and did absolutely nothing, alternating between my bed and the two other bedrooms and the couch. The only work consisted of heating up the food, watering the plants and making the bed. The phone was on silent and I used it only when absolutely necessary.

I read new/un-read books and old favorites. I read about politics (Stephen Katz's Overthrow and travel (Syed Mujtaba Ali's Deshe Bideshe), love (Georgette Heyer's Friday's Child) and laughter (Jerome K. Jerome's Three Men in a Boat), fantasies (Rudyard Kipling's Puck of Pook's Hill), classics (Sharatchandra Chattapadhya's Choritrohin) and un-classics (Humayun Ahmed's Leelaboti). I read with avid interest about the lives of Hollywood and Bollywood (that's the Mumbai film industry) celebrities, and sighed over the super thin figures of the models in Elle. Meals were eaten in the company of Archie and his gang. There were books and magazines in the bathroom too.

The Eid movie schedule contained such names as Up, Snow Dogs, the Blind Side, the Sound of Music, and Hirok Rajar Deshe (the Kingdom of Diamonds). And there were no junk food binges during showtime - or before or after (I'm so proud of myself!).

But all good things must come to an end. Sigh! But in the rat race that is our lives, I really needed this break, and I will return to the real world truly refreshed. Amen.

Shop till you Drop!

2010-09-10T11:15:00.009+06:00

With Eid fast approaching, the shopping frenzy has increased in tempo. It's buy...buy...buy! And then buy some more!

We typically spend a third of our annual budget for clothes and accessories during Ramadan - buying for ourselves, for our extended circle of family and friends and associates, for the less fortunate, for our homes. It is predicted that total sales for Ramadan this year will top 16 billion Taka (about 230 million USD)! Businesspeople all over the country - at the mega malls, shopping centers and makeshift shops - are reporting better sales than last year in men's, women's and children's items. There is something for every taste and every budget.

I ventured to Bashundhara City Mall earlier this week. With 2500 retail stores spread over 8 floors, Bashundhara City is the largest shopping mall in South Asia, and sells almost everything under one roof (and a very colorful roof it is).

This is what I saw:

Yes, there were quite a lot of shoppers.

And this is what they were buying:

I should have made the effort to visit some other shopping centers like New Market and Gawsia Market, Mouchak Market and Bangabazzar, Bailey Road and Elephant Road, but I just couldn't bring myself to face the horrendous traffic. My apologies for not being able to share with you the photos of those very interesting and equally colorful places. Another time, I promise.

Let me take this opportunity to wish you all Eid Mubarak, and hope for peace, tolerance, happiness and prosperity in your lives.

Time Out: A Stay at the Taj Tashi

2010-08-25T18:25:00.011+06:00

I recently stayed at the Taj Tashi in Thimphu, Bhutan. It was the ULTIMATE in relaxation! And although I usually write my hotel reviews at TripAdvisor, I felt I just had to write about the Taj Tashi on my blog.

These are the photos I found of the hotel on the internet. It was clear that the building has adopted age-old Bhutanese traditions in its architecture and service. And I started to look forward to my stay.

My first view of the hotel didn't disappoint. It was like walking into a Dzong!

When I walked in through the front door, a maroon-clad Lama came forth to bless me with sprinkles of holy water and rice, offered me a traditional white silk kadha, and knotted a yellow string around my neck for luck, accompanied by the chimes of small metal bells. We were standing under massive cast iron bells hanging from the high lobby ceiling, and looked out into the valley beyond. I felt blessed.

The common areas were very elegantly furnished - always a mix of the traditional and the modern.

The hotel backyard was also very peaceful. There is just something about Bhutan that takes all your worries away.

Luxuriously appointed spacious bedrooms captured the essence of Bhutanese art and architecture in a contemporary setting, and attention was paid to even the minute details.

Hand-painted Budhdhist murals adorned the walls.

And the bathroom was to die for!!!

It had a heated floor!!!!!!! And spa quality toiletries!!

The main restaurant was also serenity personified. Just look at what view it afforded the diners!

Yes, that really is a HUGE prayer wheel. Om-mani-padme-hum!

And the bar-lounge was very trendy.

I lost my beloved camera one morning, and even a massive dose of retail therapy (5 pairs of shoes) didn't help. I needed to get over my loss and heal! The hotel claimed that their signature Jiva Spa experiences are steeped in the ancient Indian, Royal and healing traditions. So I booked the traditional 'hot-stone bath', trying not to wince at what it would cost me! But let me tell you, Dear Readers, it was money very well spent!

And the evening was rounded up with a gourmet in-room meal!

To add to its virtues, the Taj Tashi is located just off Thimphu's main thoroughfare, Norzin Lam, and is a stone's throw from the main sights, offices and shops. A traditional Bhutanese song-dance-music show is staged every evening for the guests. The service is efficiently provided by traditionally dressed young men and women, who always have a smile to offer. What more can one possibly ask?

I must return one winter to sit in the warmth of the bonfire in the backyard. Soon.

Iftar

2010-08-20T18:59:00.008+06:00

The Muezzin's call to Maghrib prayers is the signal that the fast is over for the day. We recite the Iftar dua "O Allah! I fasted for You and I believe in You [and I put my trust in You] and I break my fast with Your sustenance" and break the fast.

Fast is traditionally broken with chilled lemonade or coconut water. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

Cucumber further quenches thirst while dates provide an instant energy surge.

Next come orange slices. Vitamin C!

Followed by cooked chickpeas (high in nutrient value) - accompanied by puffed rice.

Are you marvelling at our healthy, by-the-book diet? Don't be so quick to judge!

We next binge on absolutely unhealthy deep fried goodies - without which no self-respecting South Asian Muslim would consider their fast 'properly' broken.

Golden Piaju (a mix of mashed lentil/sliced onion/green chili/cilanthro).

Feather light Beguni (aubergine covered in cornflour batter).

Sag Pakora (shredded spinach mixed with flour).

And of course, no Iftar table is complete without store bought (and even unhealthier?) delicacies.

Mutton Haleem (mutton and lentil curry - well, it's a bit more complicated than that!). Oh yumm, yummmm, yummmmmmm!!!

Crunchy Jalebis (flour and curd batter deep fried and soaked in a sugar and saffron syrup). Drooooooool!!!

For dessert (Iftar IS a meal, you know) there was Mishti Doi (sweet yoghurt).

Subhan'Allah. It was a great meal!

Burp! Oh, do excuse me!!!

Ramadan Mubarak

2010-08-11T22:49:00.004+06:00

Muslims around the world are beginning to observe the Ramadan -which marks the time more than 1,400 years ago when the words of Islam's holy book, the Qur'an, were revealed to the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH). This month-long fast (between daybreak and sunset) begins on the first day of the ninth Islamic month of Ramadan. The festival predates the Islamic calendar and was originally held in summer, thus the name Ramadan, which is related to the Arabic words ar-ramad and ramida, meaning intense heat and scarcity of rations.

The Islamic calendar is a lunar calendar, months begin when the first crescent of a new moon is sighted. Since the Islamic lunar calendar year is 11 to 12 days shorter than the solar year and contains no intercalation (the insertion of a leap day), Ramadan migrates through the seasons. The Islamic day starts after sunset, and hence, the first day of Ramadan begins with the observations of the Taraweeh prayers in the evening when the new moon is sighted.

However, there is some disagreement between the two main sects of Islam (the Shi'ite and the Sunni) on the exact starting date of Ramadan. The discrepancy is due to differing interpretations of the lunar calendar.

Ramadan is not just about fasting from daybreak to sunset, as is the popular belief in the West. Rather, it is a time when Muslims concentrate on their faith and spend less time on the concerns of their everyday lives. It is a time of worship and contemplation. In many ways, it is similar to Lent, when Christians prepare for the celebration of Easter through fasting, prayer and almsgiving. The Qur'anic directive (ii:183) states: "O believers! Fasting is ordained for you, as it was ordained for those before you, that you may increase in Taqwa." (Taqwa is a term denoting piety, upright behaviour and consciousness of the one God. It patience and perseverance, and fasting is regarded as a help in cultivating these qualities.) The Qur'anic passage also reminds mankind that Islam is not a new doctrine. It is essentially the same message that was stressed by all the previous prophets of God. Fasting, as the verse enunciates, is not a new practice or one exclusive to today's Muslims, but was also recommended by earlier prophets to their own respective communities. Sadly, it is a truth almost banished into oblivion by today's Muslims and non-Muslims alike.

Ramadan should be seen as an opportunity to renew and strengthen oneself. The challenge is not only to curb one's appetite for basic needs, but also to control negative emotional conditions, especially anger, greed, intolerance, arrogance and dishonesty. Ramadan serves as a positive physical challenge each year. Throughout a Muslim’s lifetime, Ramadan falls both during winter months, when the days are short, and summer months, when the days are long and hot. Accordingly, it is a test of devotion, in which physical endurance mirrors the inner spiritual state, which a believer constantly strives to improve.

Moreover, the knowledge that hundreds of millions of Muslims around the world, of many diverse nationalities and ethnic groups, are participating in the same exercise contributes towards creating a powerful sense of global unity.

The end of Ramadan is celebrated with Eid-ul-Fitr (feast of the fast-breaking), a festival that takes place on the first day of the month that follows Ramadan. Eid encapsulates and promotes the Islamic values of family, cohesion, community, optimism and service to God alone. Eid begins with a special prayer in which the whole community comes together. In the true Islamic spirit, the unfortunate are not forgotten, rather, those who can afford it provide a special charity (called Fitra) for the poor and needy so that they can also join in the celebrations. Eid is a day of family gatherings and feasts, community festivals, new clothes and gifts.

Ramadan Mubarak to all my Readers.

The Dawn of the Pink Sun

2010-08-08T14:03:00.023+06:00

Candy's 4th birthday was knocking at the door, and we planned a small get-together of family and friends. Since we couldn’t celebrate her 3rd birthday due to a family illness, we (well, if truth be told, I) decided to go all out (read, a little overboard).

Party planning started with hours of internet browsing (as a result, Ranak diagnosed me with internet addiction. Sigh!). In the end, we decided to have a pink polka dot themed party.

Cloth shops, craft stores and party supply shops were scoured for the right pink decorations. A 'To Do' list was drawn up and oft consulted. And the party accessories gradually started to take shape.

Pink Invitations were sent out. A dress code was specified.

A Pink Birthday Banner was lovingly made. And hung with Pink Ribbon.

A Pink Poster announced the party at the front door.

On the day, when the morning sun streamed in through the Pink Curtains, the entire room was bathed in a soft pink light!

There was a Pink Tablecloth and Pink Runners on the sideboards. The Pink Flowers looked so pretty!

Even the crockery dressed up in Pink.

And Pink Balloons were EVERYWHERE!

The Pink Cake looked too good to eat. There were Pink Drinks. And loads of other goodies.

The birthday girl wore the loveliest pink-polka dot collar. She looked ADORABLE (but I may be biased).

Her Mommy, Daddy and the housekeeper Sonia all were in Pink.

And the guests came. Wearing Pink. Laughing. Bearing gifts. There was even a handmade card!

Some gifts were played with right there and then. The poor crocodile lost a leg.

We cut the cake. The birthday girl wanted to lick all the icing but had to be satisfied with two slices.

We ate. And made merry.

It was a wonderful party.

Thank you, God, for blessing us with such a sweet-natured little girl. And for surrounding us with such great family and friends.

April Colors

2010-04-14T16:35:00.013+06:00

The colors of April, if you are living in Bangladesh, are red and white. This is the month when we celebrate the Bengali New Year, and the entire country (well, mostly the urban population, actually) is dressed up to the nines in these colors.

And the Blogging Girl and Ranak too were properly attired.

The Art College brought out a procession, called the Mongol Shobha Jatra, with huge floats and colorful masks.

And there was entertainment galore.

Many wares were on sale in the Boishakhi Mela (fair).

And if one was hungry, or thirsty, there were lots on offer.

The average Bengali is very patriotic, and we sat for awhile under the most patriotic ceiling in the country - at Madhu's Canteen in the Dhaka Uni campus.

Running into dear friends is always a pleasant surprise.

While some things reminded us of dear friends far away.

For lunch we went to Aahar, a very popular restaurant specializing in local cuisine (on Road 23, Gulshan).

And at home, a Boishakhi atmosphere prevailed.

Shubho Nobo Borsho, Dear Readers.

Visit to Padma Resort

2010-01-09T10:00:00.023+06:00

We wanted to go somewhere close by for a day-trip on occassion of my parents' anniversary, and decided on the Padma Resort. It looked great on the website.

Located in a shoal on the Padma river just opposite the Louhajang Police Station (in Munshiganj District), the Padma Resort was developed by a local businessman about five years back. I made a reservation over the phone with their Dhaka office, they kindly agreed to waive the advance deposit, agreeing that we could pay on the spot, and we were all set!

We set off at 9am on a Saturday for the 100 minute 43 km drive. The traffic was relatively light but it still took us an hour to clear the city. Then it was a pleasant hour's drive through paddy fields and mustard fields. And immediately, we began to relax.

At Louhajang, we had a bit of trouble finding the exact place though, as there were no signposts anywhere. Once we located the ghat (jetty), I called the resort guys and they came to take us across in a trawler (engine boat).

It took some maneuvering to get Candy aboard, but she managed it in the end, walking gingerly on the plank, and the other passengers gave us a wide berth.

At the resort we were shown to our cottage: one of approximately a dozen.

The cottages were very picturesque from outside, and the layout within was very modern - with a lower sitting area and an upper bedroom. But we were very disappointed at the poor upkeep within. Some wooden floor planks had in places moved as much as an inch away from its neighbour, there was dust everywhere, the furnishings clearly had not been laundered in recent days (more like weeks!), and the wooden railings surrounding the deck were literally falling apart (making it totally unsafe for adults and children alike, and dogs too). The bathroom, thankfully, was modern, clean and functional. But the short staircases leading from the lower area to the deck and from the deck to the upper area were made of wood planks, and not very safe for children or the elderly.

We walked around the place. It was a nice enough stroll, and relaxing to sit on the deckchairs. We went in December but during the monsoon season the place is more picturesque.

But as far as activities went, there was nothing to do! One could take a boat ride but that was about it. Not very exciting.

Some of the other guests had brought badminton nets and Frisbees and boisterous games were in progress. Some people had also brought along a picnic.

We ate our lunch at the restaurant - clean and functional. The food was a bit pricey but the chef clearly was talented. We ate a LOT! And they very generously provided (free of cost) a bowl of rice and chicken for Candy (who was a novel guest, it appeared).

After lunch it was nice to relax on the deck. As long as nobody leaned on the railings.

I came away feeling a little sad at the lack of maintenance of a place which clearly has a lot of potential. It's a pity because the people of Dhaka don't have too many options when it comes to a day-trip. I hope the management will start soon on the urgently needed maintenance work, and some renovations as well, making at an attractive and safe place for visitors of all ages.

Padma resort's website is: www.padmaresort.net

Around the Kathmandu Valley

2009-10-13T14:55:00.029+07:00

We packed our bags for a holiday in the foothills of the Himalayas - in gorgeous Nepal. Flights were booked on Bangladesh Biman with much trepidation, but to our utter relief the flight was only 15 minutes delayed, and we arrived in Kathmandu on an overcast Friday afternoon. We were met at the airport by the hotel driver, and a short ride brought us to Thamel, the tourist hub of the Nepalese capital. We were given an air-conditioned suite at the Tibet Guest House in Chhetrapati, complete with a kitchenette, for only $38.

We ventured out quickly, eager for a taste of Nepal, ate the first of many Momos, and wandered the labyrinthine yet colorful Thamel streets until evening. The wide variety of clothes and shawls, carpets and home furnishing, jewelry and handicrafts made me stop every two minutes and gape.

The next day I went out for an early morning walk by myself, armed with camera and Lonely Planet. It was the Dashain festival time, and all the temples and shrines were humming with devotees, and the odd sacrificial goat.

I took time to admire the intricate woodwork on doors and windows, fed some pigeons, and wandered around a local bazaar, where I bought some heavenly smelling spices.

Back at the hotel, we opted for breakfast at Helena's rooftop terrace. The food was great and the view unequalled.

Our hired car came to pick us up at 10am for a city tour. Our first stop was Swyambhunath Stupa, also known as the monkey temple, the biggest Budhdhist temple in the Kathmandu valley. Legend says that Kathmandu valley was once a lake from which arose the island on which Swyambhunath stands. The lake then gradually dried up and settlements were built. There is a trinity of red and yellow stone Buddha figures at the base of the hill.

The stupa is reached by climbing 360 steep stairs, a feat which once again demonstrated how unfit I was. But the glimpse of the golden stupa kept me going.

There are benches for the weary on either side of the stairs, and a collection of stonework depicting the birth of Buddha. On the final (and steepest) stretch, there are pairs of animals flanking the stairs - garudas, peacocks, lions, elephants and horses - the 'bahan' (vehicle) of the five Dhyani Budhdhas: Vairocana, Ratnasambhaba, Amitabha, Amoghasiddhi and Akshbhya). Prayer flags flutter in the breeze.

The first sight that greeted us as we reached the top was a huge golden Dorje (or Vajra in Sankskrit - thunderbolt) and a bell. Tantric thought symbolizes the dorje as the male force and the bell as female wisdom. Two white temples in the Indian shikhara style flank the dorje. The view from the top is fantastic! The stupa has the eyes of Buddha painted on all four sides of the harmika (the gold-colored square block that sits atop the massive white dome), and it seems that for time eternal, the all-knowing eyes have kept watch over Kathmandu valley. Above the two regular eyes is the third eye, symbolizing Buddha's insight. The base of the stupa is surrounded by a series of prayer wheels, each of which carries the the sacred Tibetan mantra "om mani padme hum".

There are Tibetan monasteries, shrines and settlements around the Swyambhunath hill, and the mandatory souvenir shops and coffee shops for the tourists. The National Museum is nearby, but we gave it a miss.

We rode along the famous Ring Road to reach Bodhnath Stupa, where some believe a bone of Buddha is interred. The massive dome is surrounded by 108 small images of the Dhyani Buddha Amitabha, as well as the mandatory prayer wheels, set into 147 niches around the base of the stupa. The all-seeing eyes are painted on all four sides of the harmika, which is topped by a tapering section of 13 stages - representing the stages of perfection on the way to nirvana. At the entrance to the inner stupa stands a shrine dedicated to Ajima, the goddess of smallpox. A number of Gompas (monasteries) have been built around the stupa. We fed the pigeons and bought a small kalachakra mandala thangka painted by a monk.

Next we headed for Pasupatinath, the most important Shiva temple of the subcontinent, situated on the western banks of the Bagmati river. It is also Nepal's most important temple. Shiva is the destroyer and creator of the Hindu pantheon and is usually worshipped in Nepal in his most violent form: Bhairav. But Pashupati is Shiva's most pleasant form, as the shepherd of animals and humans. The ground of the temple are open to all but the fifth century temple is for Hindus only. Nepal's Dalit (untouchables) community was only allowed access to the temple in 2001. The priests of the temple are traditionally from the South Indian state of Karnataka, which has recently sparked controversy and even violence, with demands that Nepali priests should replace the Indian priests.

On the banks of the river are the cremation ghats (called Arya ghats) and there were two funerals in progress as we entered the temple complex.

We passed the Panch Deval and headed to the eastern bank. Climbing up to the terrace was a good idea, for it offers a good view of the area. Facing the temple from across the river are 11 stone chaityas, each containing a stone lingam (the phallic symbol of Shiva's creative powers). At the northern end of the terrace is a shiva lingam (5th or 6th century) on a circular pedestal. A finely sculpted face of the god has been carved onto this.

The steps on the eastern bank of the river continue to the Gorakhnath and Vishwarup temples, the latter off-limits to non-Hindus. But with 17th century temples, lingams and tridents scattered everywhere, the Mrigasthali Deer Park on the hills, and monkeys everywhere, this is a peaceful surrounding.

Next stop was Patan, the ancient capital of the Malla kings. This second largest town of the Kathamandu valley is also known by its Sangskrit name 'Lalitpur (city of beauty)' and its Newari name 'Yala'. We had lunch at Café du Patan, across the street from Durbar Square. Patan's Durbar Square - a pedestrian zone - is full of palaces and temples, and its streets are full of stupas and bahals. Emperor Ashoka built four stupas at the four corners of the city when he reportedly visited in 250 BC.

The Golden Temple in Patan is a Buddhist monastery where the four Tibetan faiths converge. The entrance is guarded by two menacing stone lions. Leather shoes/handbags/belts have to be taken off before entering the inner courtyard which is richly decorated with lions, elephants and prayer wheels. There is a small ornate shrine with griffins and a golden roof in the middle of the courtyard.

We left Kathmandu's Durbar Square for last, sort of as the crème de la crème of the day's outing. The area is comprised of three adjacent squares. But after the splendour and cleanliness of Patan's Durbar Square, the Kathmandu one seemed rather drab and crowded and very dirty, and evoked a rather strong feeling of anticlimax.

Kathmandu takes it's name from Kashthyamandap (wooden platform) - famed to be the oldest building in the valley. The three-storied 12th century building was reportedly built from the wood of a single massive sal tree, and was originally a pilgrim shelter. It was later turned into a temple for the God Gorakhnath, with Ganesha statues at four corners of the building.

Maju Deval is the highest structure in the square. This Shiva temple stands on a nine-stage ochre platform. It is a triple-roofed temple with intricate carvings on the wooden struts.

The Trailokya Mohan Narayan temple is dedicated to Vishnu, and has a huge stone figure of a kneeling Garuda in front of it. Dances are performed on the platform of the temple during the Indra Jatra festival.

The Shiva Parvati temple stands on a three-stage platform, and the images of Shiva and his consort Parvati watch from an upstairs window.

The structure that impressed me the most was Kumari Ghar, the house of the Living Goddess (I'll write a separate piece on this someday). It is a square 3-storied building with intricate wood carvings on doors and windows. The outer façade has a golden window at which the Kumari appears half a dozen times a year. The inner temple is not open to non-Hindus.

The Gadhdhi Baithak (said to have been modeled on London's National Gallery) is an European style building on the eastern side of Durbar Square. Once part of the Rana palace, it seems strangely out of place amongst the traditional style buildings.

Other buildings in the area include King Pratap Malla's column, the Royal Palace - Hanuman Dhoka, the Taleju Temple, the Swet Bhairav Temple and the Jagannath temple, with its erotic carvings from the Kamasutra. There is a statue of Hanuman outside the Hanuman Dhoka with it's head covered in red cloth (because Hanuman was a bachelor, he should not see the erotic carvings on the Jagannath temple!)

We explored the bustling Thamel nightlife in the evening.

... and retired early for our trip to Pokhara the next day.

Dark Cloud over Dhaka Zoo

2009-09-17T15:53:00.008+07:00

Dhaka Zoo is one of the biggest attractions of the city, attracting about 10,000 visitors every day. The 35 year old zoo is located on 186 acres of land in the Mirpur area of the city, and is home to approximately 2,200 animals of 157 species. There are 57 species of mammals, 61 species of birds, 11 species of reptiles, and 28 species of fish.

In recent months, the zoo has seen an ever escalating number of deaths - rising to a total of 21 by this month! A lion, a tiger and a giraffe died in the span of one week! (okay, so the tiger was 15 years old and had lost all his molars. But when he stopped eating, his keepers obviously wrote him off.) Amongst the other animals that died earlier, there was a sambar deer which died in the first week of May; a baboon, a wildebeest and the last Malayan tapir of the zoo in March; a Royal Bengal tiger, two fresh water crocodiles, one zebra and a stork in February. Zoo authorities brushed aside any reason for concern saying the deaths at the zoo so far were normal. Some were caused by tuberculosis, gangrene, and also from fighting each other, they said, while others died of old age complications.

Last year alone the zoo spent USD 800,000 bringing 38 animals, including giraffe, zebra, oryx, wildebeest, impala, greater kudu, common elan, horse, donkey and kangaroo, from South Africa. Among the newly procured animals, the first casualty occurred when a greater kudu died in the quarantine shed within 15 days of its arrival. Eight others - two kangaroos, one impala, two oryx, two other greater kudus and one mountain zebra - died within the next four months. According to the (now suspended) curator, deaths up to 30 percent of a new lot is normal. “It is absolutely normal to expect a few deaths when animals are introduced to a new environment,” he had said in an interview around that time.

The lone one-horned rhinoceros of the zoo has been suffering from Pyometra disease (an extremely painful uterine infection that requires surgery) for the last year and a half. Besides, a horse, a samber, and a kudu are also ill. A prevalence of foot and mouth disease (FMD) among the cloven-hoofed animals at the zoo has been reported. Numerous medical boards have been formed for their treatment, but the 'expertise' of the boards is in serious doubt. The rhino needs to undergo surgery but the zoo does not have any such facilities. The giraffe (only 3 years old!) had stopped eating/drinking from 1st Sep and died from absolute dehydration a week later. The diagnosis? Suspected intestinal complications! The male of the pair was absolutely traumatized by his partner's untimely death and stopped eating! The giraffe death prompted government officials to suspend the zoo's chief and his deputy and to launch an enquiry, but it is obvious that more action is needed.

The eight years and three months old lion was found dead in its cage in the morning. The lion had been born in captivity at another zoo in the country and brought to Dhaka zoo in 2002. He had been suffering from paralysis for the last year and a half and was unable to move. “The condition of the lion was good till 7:00 pm on Wednesday but it was found dead this morning,” said an officer who takes care of the mammals at the zoo, claiming that the lion was being provided with 'better treatment'.

Asked how many animals are now sick, the acting curator told a leading newspaper correspondent that they do not have any such account! It is obvious that health care management is falling part at the zoo, and prompt action is needed to prevent more deaths.
The cages and enclosures of the zoo are of very poor standard. Even a semi-natural environment for the animals cannot be ensured due to lack of budget and space. The cleanliness of the animal dwellings leave a lot to be desired (I have not been able to even stand in front of cages for the fecal smells!). The food is often inadequate in quantity and inferior in quality (keepers often slice off meat and feed only the bones to the animals or buy rotten fruit at a cheap rate, pocketing the difference). The zoo is understaffed, and caring for the large number of animals have become a burden for the limited number of keepers. The keepers furthermore are untrained in animal care, and overall, the zoo authorities lack expertise in wildlife care.

“Dhaka zoo is run by vets who don’t know the eating habits and wildlife environment of the animals they keep,” said Reza Khan, Bangladesh’s top wildlife expert who heads Dubai Zoo in the United Arab Emirates. Wildlife Trust of Bangladesh Chief Professor Anwarul Islam said, "They (the zoo authorities) don't have a wildlife biologist and the veterinarian cannot properly maintain the zoo." The zoo is for wildlife, not livestock - a concept that clearly seems to be missing in Bangladesh, as far as animal care is concerned.

A slum has been mushrooming adjacent to the zoo boundary (just behind the area that houses the horses and giraffes), and the slum dwellers often disturb/scare the animals. The domestic animals kept by the slum dwellers, and indeed their own unsanitary toilets, and lack of cleanliness, may also be a source of fatal infections for the zoo inmates.

It is quite obvious that the reasons behind the deaths of this animals are negligence, inadequate care, inexperience, poor living conditions and most important, indifference. The attitude of our zoo authorities has become glaringly clear through this series of deaths: caring for wild animals in a country where millions starve and lack access to healthcare is a luxury. The authorities also seem to be in total ignorance of modern zoo standards and practices. Do the Bangladesh zoos even comply with the lowest acceptable practices, as determined by the Global Zoo Community?
Let me tell you the definition of a substandard zoo. It is one which "doesn’t know how", "doesn’t care" (deliberately substandard) and "cannot afford it". Bangladeshi zoos are all of the above! Our substandard zoos convey the unfortunate subliminal messages such as 'wildlife is cheap', 'authorities don’t seem to care therefore wildlife is plentiful' and 'wild animals are pathetic and not valued'. These zoos also have an overall negative impact on animal welfare - unsuitable living environments for animals, lack of husbandry and veterinary care and expertise such as sanitation (inadequate sanitation could cause the spread of diseases), nutrition, preventative medicine, etc. The attitude of the authorities also prompt visitor misbehavior such as feeding, teasing, violence, causing stress to animals, etc.

If we want to have zoos with healthy animals, we must seek assistance from those who know and can help. Otherwise, we must close the zoos down and send the animals to better homes.

(Photos courtesy: The Daily Star)

Away from My Blog

2009-08-16T22:12:00.002+07:00

Dear Friends,

I know you've not seen me around here much.

But I've been very, very busy.

Too busy to write. Too busy to take photos. Too busy to blog.

My days (and nights) rushed by... merged into one another... I was busy. And I was scared.

The two men in my life were both in hospital.

Dad had a long-scheduled cataract-glaucoma surgery. Complications could arise because of his advanced age - he's 71! And Ranak scared the living daylights out of everyone by picking up acute Hepatitis E. His liver enzyme level (known as SGPT) climbed to 3400 (normal is 42!) and he turned yellow with jaundice, and dropped weight overnight! Hepatitis E is a self-limiting disease and has no known clinical cure.

I rushed from one hospital to another (located conveniently at two ends of town), and came home in between for a few minutes, took leave from work, and shopped endlessly for this and that (for there were a few house-guests who had to be cared for as well), and put on a brave and competent face for the world.

But at night, curled up in bed with Candy, the scared tears flowed. And I prayed. And promised to be good. And begged.

And God listened!

They are both home now. Recovering slowly.

And life is getting back to normal. Soon, I'll be blogging!

Thank you, dear Readers, for your emails and support through this difficult time.

My Feathered Friends

2009-06-27T02:16:00.003+07:00

Sparrows are nesting in my veranda again! And it's such a joy to wake up to their happy chirps.

Check out the proud parents.

And their home-delivered supply of food and water. They've now developed a preference for imported bird seeds over the local rice.

Apologies for the poor quality photographs (taken with my cell phone). Blame Nokia.

Time to Go

2009-06-04T22:40:00.013+06:00

If I hadn't been born as a human, I'd probably have been born as a tree. I have a tendency to put down roots and spread branches wherever I go. And then when it's time to leave, the uprooting is very painful.

I have recently started a new job. Most would call it an upward career move, but in order to start this job, I had to stop with my old, which was a very sad parting indeed. I had been with that organization formally for two years, and informally for quite a while longer. Tree-natured that I am, it was long enough time for the roots to go down very deep and the branches to spread very wide.

Almost before I realized it, it was my last day at work. And we had a little party!

The food was yummy.

And the atmosphere was festive.

We had two unexpected underage guests.

But we were only serving soda anyway, so there was nothing to worry about.

The Boss pressed an ice cream on me. You can tell that I didn't want it.

Then I got told off when I opted for the junk food. The boss didn't tell off the others who were stuffing their faces - probably because they were not leaving. Such discrimination! Tsk..tsk!

But the tears were brimming in many eyes behind the smiles - in mine too of course, and I had a stash of tissues ready to stem the waterworks.

Yeah and some said 'good riddance!', and 'let's eat!' Oh well, you can't win 'em ALL.

I got some very thoughtful, very lovely gifts. My personal favorite was the scrapbook with photographs and scribblings from my colleagues.

And I want to thank Nuzi, for organizing it all, and for being such a lovely person and the best roomie a person can ever have. I will miss having my personal DJ.

And Akbar, for being friend, philosopher and guide. And the biggest softie ever!

And Afroja, for being such a great sister. Always compassionate. Always ready to lend a hand.

And Beata and Manzoor bhai and Rizwan bhai - what a great team we made!

And to everyone else, I just want to say thank you for making this place my home away from home, and for being caring and supportive throughout this journey. For letting me make so many happy memories. And most of all, for making me feel loved! There will never really be another bunch like you in my life. I will miss you so very much.

So ugh, let me pull up my roots, and go onwards with life. Please pray that I will be happy wherever my journey takes me. And remember, there will always be room for you in my life and my home will always be open for you.